Each Culinary Artist Ought to Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Top Dining Destinations.
Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.
An Surprise Recognition
The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.
“I’m completely surprised,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Simplicity
The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.
A Signature Offering: Tantuni
In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.
It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.
Beyond the Classic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.
Surpassing the Stars
Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.
A Philosophy of Hospitality
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
The Path of Dedication
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
A Achievement for the Community
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.